Where We Are Going Today: ‘Okawa’ in Riyadh

DUBAI: From Michelin-starred kitchens in Spain and France to luxury dining destinations in the Maldives and Bangkok, Chef Laia Ferrer Baile has built an impressive career.  

Born and raised in Barcelona, Baile knew from a young age that she wanted to be a chef. She ended up training in some of the world’s most celebrated restaurants, including the three-Michelin-starred Restaurante Disfrutar.  

Now, as head chef of Tabrah in Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve located on Ummahat Island off the coast of Saudi Arabia, she brings her expertise to the Kingdom. 

“My experience in Saudi has been amazing,” she tells Arab News. “The people are really welcoming, the food is amazing, and the environment I’m working in is fantastic.” 

Here, Baile shares her thoughts on simplicity in cooking, customer preferences, and her favorite cuisines. 

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?  

I remember putting thousands of things on a dish in university because I thought the more things I put, the more the teacher would like it. But it was a disaster. I’ve learned that simplicity is best. You don’t need to add thousands of things to make something taste good. Sometimes it’s just salt and pepper. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

Enjoy what you are doing. I always say to my family: “This isn’t a race.” Relax and enjoy the moment. Be curious about what you are doing, and learn why you are doing it.  

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? 

As a Spanish woman, I think it’s extra virgin olive oil. We call it liquid gold. It can make anything very simple become amazing; like, if you just put a bit of olive oil on a piece of bread, it will always be better.  

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

My first instinct was to say no. But, then my boyfriend said, “How can you say no to that question? You do that all the time.” So, apparently, I do. But I also like to enjoy my experience. I think it is when I’m expecting something to be very good and it isn’t — that’s when I'm really critical. When I’m not expecting much, like street food in Bangkok or a small family restaurant, I won’t be that critical. But when I go to an expensive place that I really want to try and they disappoint me, then I will be.  

What’s the most common issue you find in other restaurants?  

Overcomplicating the dishes. Also, there are restaurants where you can feel that the servers don’t want to be there, so they will always lack care. 

 What’s your favorite cuisine?  

I have two kinds of favorite restaurants. There are the ones I go to with my family or friends to enjoy and celebrate — these are the ones where I find my comfort food that reminds me of my mom’s food and all the Spanish things. But I also like to find new touches that elevate food a little bit. These also inspire me. So I really like to go to Michelin restaurants, where the chefs are doing something new, just to give me a spark.  

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

It used to be curry. I used to love making quick curry dishes — I’d always have curry paste at home. Now, though, I like to cook pad Thai because it is my sister’s favorite dish. I always try to cook that when I am in a rush. It tastes good and it’s quick and easy to make.  

What customer behavior most annoys you? 

It really annoys me when people want to change the ingredients of dishes. I can understand if, for example, someone doesn’t eat tomato, then we will try to remove it. And I understand if people have allergies; I’m allergic to leek, for example, and when I go to some restaurants, people won’t believe me because there are a lot of people who say they have allergies when they don’t. We take it very seriously in the kitchen when someone says they have allergies: We cook the food separately, and we will clean the kitchen from top to bottom and we have special cutting boards and knives that we will use just for that person. So, if they say they are allergic when they aren’t, it really wastes our time.  

What’s your favorite dish to cook? 

Suquet de Peix, a potato-based seafood stew. It brings me back to my roots. When I was a kid, my family owned an apartment by the beach, and it was a very typical dish in the area.  

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?  

Anything that has to be cooked with flour or sugar, like pastries. I think I’m really bad at it. I think it’s because I tell myself every day that I’m bad at it and I don’t practice the skills for it. Don’t ask me to make a soufflé, for example; it will be an omelet.  

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you very strict, or quite laidback? 

Right now, I’m leading an all-female team. Most of them are fresh graduates, so I can’t be too harsh or aggressive with them. I really try to give them a positive and empowering environment, because I’ve worked in very, very bad kitchens where they would scream and throw things. I wouldn’t want them to experience that. But we always have to have discipline. It’s the most important thing.  

Chef Laia’s chicken kabsa croquetas recipe

Ingredients: 

For the filling: 

1 cup cooked chicken (spiced with kabsa seasoning: cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, turmeric, cumin) 

2 tbsp olive oil 

1 small onion, finely chopped 

2 tbsp grated carrot 

1 spoon of tomato puree  

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon 

1/4 tsp ground cumin 

Salt and pepper to taste 

For the béchamel sauce (croqueta base): 

3 tbsp butter 

3 tbsp all-purpose flour 

1 1/4 cups whole milk, warmed 

Salt and white pepper to taste 

For coating: 

1 cup all-purpose flour 

2 large eggs, beaten 

2 cups breadcrumbs (panko or regular) 

For frying: 

Vegetable oil  

Instructions: 

Prepare the filling: 

Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Sauté the onion, the garlic and the carrot until soft and translucent, then add the tomato and keep cooking for 10 minutes. 

Add the shredded chicken, ground cinnamon, and cumin. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. Set aside to cool.  

Make the béchamel sauce: 

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Stir in the flour and cook for two to three minutes to form a smooth paste (roux). 

Gradually whisk in the warm milk, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Cook until the mixture thickens and becomes creamy. 

Season with salt, and white pepper.  

Mix the spiced chicken into the béchamel sauce until well combined. 

Transfer the mixture to a shallow dish, cover with plastic wrap (pressing it directly onto the surface), and refrigerate for at least two hours or until firm. 

Shape the croquetas: 

Once the mixture is firm, take small portions and shape them into cylinders or balls about the size of a golf ball. 

Coat the croquetas: 

Roll each croqueta in flour, dip in beaten egg, and then coat with breadcrumbs. 

For an extra crispy texture, repeat the egg and breadcrumb coating. 

Fry the croquetas: 

Heat the vegetable oil in a deep frying pan or pot to 180°C (350°F). 

Fry the croquetas in small batches until golden brown and crisp, about two to three minutes. 

Remove and drain on paper towels. 

Tips: 

For a baked version, brush the croquetas with olive oil and bake at 200°C (400°F) for 15–20 minutes, turning halfway. 

You can freeze the croquetas before frying for a quick make-ahead snack.