Flavorful and artsy, traditional pastry reigns as Malaysia’s favorite Ramadan treat

This photo collage shows Sharifah Zainon decorating kek lapis at her bakery Lapis by Seri in Seremban, Malaysia, and some of her previous work. (Lapis by Seri)
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  • Average kek lapis takes at least 5 hours to bake and decorate
  • Originating from Indonesia, it became popular in Malaysia in the 1970s

KUALA LUMPUR: Combining different colors, flavors, and intricate patterns, kek lapis is an indisputable form of pastry art and a favorite cake for many Malaysians during Ramadan — a time when bakers get the spotlight to display their skills.

The most famous variety of kek lapis, or layered cake, is from the Sarawak state in northwest Borneo island.

Originating from the lapis legit cake from Indonesia — an interpretation of a European-style spit-roasted pastry that made its way into Sarawak in the 1970s — it has since evolved into Malaysia’s most colorful and ornamental treat that is a staple during iftars and Eid celebrations.

Mohd. Samat Abdul Hamid, a baker whose family comes from Sarawak, entered the kek lapis business when he moved to Kuala Lumpur.

“Every time I head back to my hometown, my colleagues and friends will ask me to bring back some kek lapis. Every time I go, I buy between 10-15 cakes,” he told Arab News.

“At one point I told myself, I might as well just do it on my own. So, I learned from the elders in my family and followed the recipe to make my own cakes. As of January, I have been doing this for over three years now.”

Hamid, who still pursues his full-time profession as a software engineer, focuses his baking business primarily on the Ramadan and Eid Al-Fitr period.

The process is not only time-consuming but also requires constant attention.

“On average, it takes about one hour to make the batter, and this includes the flavoring and coloring. After that, I start the layering process, and each layer bakes for approximately seven to 10 minutes. There are about 14 to 18 layers per cake depending on the type and flavor,” he said.

“You do not leave the oven. Constant observation is key to ensure the layers don’t burn or dry out.”

His least elaborate layered cake costs about $13, with the price increasing with the complexity of patterns and flavors, which include varieties such as red velvet or the purple Kek Fatzzura — a viral Malaysian blueberry cake named after actor Fattah Amin and his wife actress Fazura.

Another engineer turned baker, Sharifah Zainon, is devoted full-time to her business, which offers a modernized twist to the traditional layer cake.

“Baking wasn’t my original career path. I have a degree in artificial intelligence and worked as a storage engineer before diving into baking. I had never baked before and never imagined I’d love it this much!” she told Arab News.

“I started baking just trying my luck, making regular kek lapis for a few years. Then I got the idea to spice it up by combining batik and geometry — a twist I never expected to become such a hit.”

The patterns combine structured designs and traditional Malaysian and Southeast Asian ornamental motifs.

Her typical cake-making routine starts with sketching the overall design on paper to visualize the final piece. She then calculates the dimensions of her patterns and prepares the batter.

“I then draw the batik pattern and bake that layer. At the same time, I bake the parts that will later be cut into the geometric shape. Once baked, I carefully cut the cake and combine the layers. Finally, I add finishing touches by embossing the design with chocolate painting,” she said.

“My featured product is the lapis geometry with batik painting, which is also my most popular creation. Although it involves a long process that demands patience and precision, I truly enjoy working on it. The final result always fills me with joy and satisfaction.”

Zainon’s Lapis by Seri venture based in Seremban, about an hour from Kuala Lumpur, has been a hit both offline and on social media, where videos of her new creations regularly go viral.

She typically spends 10 to 12 hours a day baking and makes up to 50 cakes a week, depending on orders.

“During the festive season, orders typically increase by around 100 percent,” she said.

“And this surge isn’t limited to Hari Raya (Eid Al-Fitr). There’s also a significant boost throughout Ramadan, as many customers choose our kek lapis as a thoughtful gift during the month.”