JEDDAH: During the holy month of Ramadan, Jeddah’s streets come alive with food stalls, drawing crowds to savor local favorites such as the popular “basta” fries pop-up experience.
Stalls, particularly those selling French fries, line the streets, bringing people together in a celebration of local flavors.
Food carts and traditional kiosks set up in alleyways of residential areas and in public squares serve delicious dishes and beverages, evoking nostalgia and reviving the spirit of the past.
After years of perfecting his steak-cooking skills, Abdoush decided to elevate the French fries game by adding premium steak cubes, topped with his signature sauce. (AN photo by Hashim Nadeem/Supplied)
The word “basta” comes from the Arabic term for simplicity, “basata,” to represent an experience that is modest, affordable, and rich in flavor.
In these attractive settings, markets bustle with activity as the aroma of kebda (liver), balila (chickpeas), and French fries fills the air, bringing the warmth of social gatherings that define the holy month.
Keeping tradition alive
Abdulrahman Ghazi, owner of the food stall Balilat Ajdadna, spoke to Arab News about the city’s love for its street foods.
“French fries have always been a Ramadan favorite, along with balila and liver. We’ve been serving customers in Al-Safa district for 28 years, and our loyal patrons know us well,” he said.
“We prepare kebda using an old traditional method, but with our own twist. We cook it with natural oil, suet, and lamb fat, without using any additional oils. This technique is highly favored by many,” Ghazi explained.
The authentic way of preparing balila takes more time and requires at least three hours of slow cooking over low heat with plenty of water, he added.
“In the past, balila was soaked for 12 hours before cooking to ensure it was thoroughly cleaned of bicarbonate residue, a crucial step that many overlook today. Unfortunately, some now use bicarbonate with a pressure cooker to speed up the process, which takes away from its true flavor.”
He insisted that the correct way to prepare balila is to let the chickpeas soak overnight, wash it thoroughly, and then cook it slowly.
“That’s why we call it ‘Balila Ajdadna’ — because it is made just like our ancestors used to prepare it in Makkah, where we originally come from,” Ghazi added.
The stall’s balila is priced is SR5 ($1.30) for a small plate and SR10 for a large plate. The small plate of fries costs SR6 and the large goes for SR12, with all the sauces one could wish for.
Although rising costs, particularly for oil, have led to price increases, Ghazi said that they strive to keep prices stable.
“Our prices remain the same throughout the year, even during Ramadan. We do not impose additional taxes, and we have always absorbed the costs ourselves.”
French fries take a new turn
While some vendors have remained loyal to tradition, serving fries with classic Saudi sauces such as garlic and homar (tamarind), others have introduced elements from various cuisines, elevating the dish beyond its conventional form.
In an interview with Arab News, Saudi content creator Abdoush, who has over half a million followers on social media, shared his inspiration for launching his fries stall — one that locals call “The Rich Man’s Stall” because its fries sell for SR60.
After years of perfecting his steak-cooking skills, Abdoush decided to elevate the French fries game by adding premium steak cubes, topped with his signature sauce.
“For me, it’s all about taking something familiar and turning it into an unforgettable experience,” he said.
His steak fries stall Crusty is located on Ali Abou Al-Ola street, operating from the backyard of a neighborhood home and serving lines of eager customers.
With innovative ingredients, such as wok-tossed steak cubes finished with a torch, Abdoush’s stall has attracted thousands of visitors during Ramadan.
The stall is a bustling business, with four counters dedicated to fries. Around 20 workers manage the operation, going through over 100 kg of steak per day and an unmeasured amount of potatoes.
According to Aboush, Crusty serves an average of 500 customers on weekdays, while on weekends the number soars to over 700.
“We do this out of love and passion. Food is truly amazing, it’s a blessing,” he said.
But what makes Abdoush’s fries expensive?
“It’s all about the process of making the fries. We don’t just fry them in regular oil — we add tallow and beef fat from the steaks. The steak we use is Russian striploin, a high-grade cut known for its marbling and rich fat content. We add about half a steak on top of the fries,” he explained.
“We also make a special sauce that we drizzle over the steak fries, but I highly recommend adding some homar (tamarind). It gives the dish a unique touch.”
Abdoush’s inspiration behind the steak fries is connected to Jeddah’s culture, especially the rise of French fry pop-ups. “Personally, I love making steaks, and with five years of experience, this was the perfect concept to bring to life.”
Crusty started last year and its popularity this year has been on a whole new level.
After Ramadan, Abdoush plans to launch his first Crusty restaurant specializing in steaks. “We won’t just serve French fries and steaks, we’ll also be adding burgers to the menu,” he said.
Residents and visitors flock to these stalls, where they not only indulge in delicious food but also experience live cooking demonstrations.
One of Crusty’s visitors, Sukinah Qattan, told Arab News: “This atmosphere doesn’t just enhance the joy of tasting food; it also enriches Saudi Arabia’s culinary sector, supports local chefs, and reinforces the presence of traditional dishes in the modern cultural scene.”
Other fries stalls offer more affordable fries. For example, Adani Bar Cafe and Ma’loom restaurant serve fries for no more than SR15.
However, their innovation lies in cutting the potatoes into cubes, instead of the traditional fries shape, and topping them with a cilantro, garlic, and lemon sauce, which visitors love.
Anas Abbas, a fries enthusiast from Jeddah, told Arab News: “Every Ramadan, I make sure to visit Adani Bar. I love their fries. They’ve truly become a Ramadan tradition. I always bring some home for my mother after her Taraweeh prayers because she also appreciates this delicious treat.”
